40 Billion Yuan of Hot Money: Capital No Longer Seeks the Next L’Oreal

by | Jul 30, 2025 | Articles

Introduction

The world of beauty investment six years ago has completely changed: the myth of traffic has ended, and biotechnology and AI have become new favorites; capital has shifted from frenzy to rationality, with 30 billion yuan flowing to 43 brands, and technological strength and long-term value have become core evaluation indicators. The global beauty industry is undergoing a capital revolution from opportunity hunting to deterministic cultivation.

If an investor traveled from six years ago to today, he would probably be surprised by the current world of beauty investment – traffic is no longer the investment theme, and peers are talking about biotechnology, AI, and brand value; brand professionals with FMCG backgrounds are no longer sought after, while doctors with science and engineering backgrounds are favored by the entire industry; super deals are becoming fewer, and capital tends to lock in market share at a small cost.

This trend of rational investment emerged in the first half of 2023 (when synthetic biology and medical aesthetics investments exploded) and became increasingly clear as the business of beauty groups continued to slow down.

According to incomplete statistics from Cosmetics Observation, from January this year to now, there have been 79 investment and financing events in the global beauty industry, covering brands and upstream and downstream of the beauty industry. The disclosed 46 investment and financing events amount to nearly 40 billion yuan. Among them, skincare, biotechnology, and personal care are the most favored by capital, with 18, 18, and 11 investment and financing events respectively, occupying a dominant position.

From the perspective of industrial cycle evolution, a map of capital migration is emerging:2023-2025 Beauty Investment Category Analysis-1

In 2018, capital chased the marketing miracle of emerging makeup – in 2020, it turned to betting on clinical verification of efficacious skincare – today, on investors’ due diligence lists, whether technological strength/brand tone can forge long-term support has become a more important evaluation indicator.

This fundamental change in capital narrative will reshape the valuation logic of the entire industry.

Inventory of Beauty Investments from January to July 2025
Time Investor/Buyer Action Target Region Amount
January Unilever Acquisition Minimalist Indian local skincare 30 billion rupees
January Hillhouse Investment Ras Luxury Skincare Indian high-end skincare 5 million USD
January Luna Acquisition Rembrand American whitening 23 million USD
January Hillhouse Investment Foxitale South Korea 30 million USD
January L Catterton under LVMH Investment California Naturals American skincare 4 million USD
January KL & Partners Acquisition Mentholatum Manyo South Korean skincare 190 billion won
January National Investment Fund + Mayhoola Investment Etro Italian luxury goods Undisclosed
January CVC Capital Investment Serin Company South Korean beauty 26 million USD
January Peterson Partners Investment Gloss Ventures American beauty Undisclosed
January Rongyu Venture Capital Investment First Cover™ South Korean skincare Undisclosed
January   Investment Sae rom South Korean skincare 50 million won
January Yibang Investment Investment Naderma South Korea 50 million USD
January   Investment Jion Beauty South Korea 3 million USD
January   Investment Milu South Korea 4.5 million USD
January   Investment Aloha South Korea Undisclosed
January Beauty under Designworks Collective Acquisition Archipelago Botanicals USA Undisclosed
January L’Oreal Acquisition Laneige Style South Korea Undisclosed
January Jacquemus Investment Amouage French luxury perfume Undisclosed
January Bombtostandout Investment Deconstruct South Korean skincare Undisclosed
February Narotam Sekhsaria Family Office Investment Pilgrim Indian beauty 20 million USD
February Silas Capital, etc. Investment DAMDAM Japanese skincare 3 million USD
February Dodo Group, Luxury Brands LLC Investment Prai Beauty American anti-aging brand Undisclosed
February Sandbridge Capital Investment Fara Homidi Beauty American beauty Undisclosed
February Sandbridge Capital Investment Everist Canadian beauty Undisclosed
March USHOPAL Investment PAYOT Paris French skincare Undisclosed
March Domestic enterprise Investment Xu Na Beauty South Korea Undisclosed
March   Investment Jinyanmei Biology South Korea Undisclosed
March   Investment Jinyanmei Biology South Korea Undisclosed
March   Investment SKKN by Kim American skincare Undisclosed
March ISEM Equity Investment Egsia South Korean skincare Undisclosed
March Chengjin Capital Investment Indie American beauty Undisclosed
March Chengjin Capital Investment Lucro Plastic American plastic packaging Undisclosed
March Encore Consumer Capital Investment LYS Beauty American skincare Undisclosed
March Vertinvest, etc. Investment Yepoda South Korean skincare Undisclosed
March dsm-firmenrich Ventures, etc. Investment ExoLab Italia Italian beauty 5 million euros
March Sycamore Partners Investment Walgreens Boots Alliance American international beauty About 10 billion USD
March Domestic enterprise Investment Haihe Chinese beauty Undisclosed
March   Investment Haihe Chinese beauty Undisclosed
April Redrice Ventures, Janjam, Saffle Investments Investment Skin Rocks British beauty Undisclosed
April Sandbridge Capital Investment Deadcool American niche perfume Undisclosed
April   Investment First Cover™ South Korean beauty Undisclosed
April Coco Chanel Investment Gerolymnis Australian beauty Tens of millions of Australian dollars
April   Investment Gerolymnis Australian beauty 70 million USD
April Yuanzhi Venture Capital Investment Jinyumei Biology South Korean skincare 675 million USD
April Oh My Cream Investment Atelier Nubio French beauty Undisclosed
April The Hut Group Investment The Hut Group British e-commerce beauty 50 million USD
April Insight Partners, etc. Investment Insight Partners American beauty 40 million USD
April Global Investment Group AG Investment Revolution Beauty British beauty 60 million USD
May True Beauty Ventures Investment Blank Beauty American beauty technology 6 million USD
May Investment Jupiter American beauty Undisclosed
May Shuimu Capital, etc. Investment Anonymous South Korean skincare 2.16 million USD
May Shilei International Holdings, etc. Investment PMO Medical Aesthetics Mass cosmetics company 20 million USD
June Movendo Capital, Draycott Acquisition Verescence French glass packaging Undisclosed
June Unilever Acquisition Medik8 British skincare brand 300 million GBP
June Yangshengtang Group Acquisition Dr.Squatch American fragrance Nearly 5 million USD
June   Investment Messy American beauty 3.46 million USD
June   Investment Jinkang South Korean beauty Undisclosed
July Goodai Global Investment SINFOOD South Korean food beauty 15 million USD
July Huda Kattan Investment Huda Beauty American beauty 1.6 billion USD
July Elf Beauty Investment Rhode American beauty Undisclosed
July Vollemens Investment Coler Wow American hair care Undisclosed
July CLSA Capital Partners Investment Jungsaemmool Beauty South Korean beauty 5 million USD
July TSG Consumer Investment Phlur American fragrance Undisclosed

30 Billion Yuan Flows to 43 Brands

Due to the large number of investments and diverse categories in the first half of 2025, to better grasp the investment trends in the first half of 2025, we first focus on the investment trends in the brand field.

In this direction, the investment and financing market in the beauty brand field shows an appearance of “false prosperity”: the whole industry has completed 43 brand-oriented investment and financing events, a year-on-year increase of 70%.

Inventory of Beauty Brand Investments in H1 2025
Time Type of Investor Investor Action Invested/Acquired Party Positioning Amount
January International beauty group Unilever Acquisition Minimalist Indian mass skincare 2.493 billion yuan
January   Unilever Investment Ras Luxury Skincare Indian luxury skincare 35.87 million yuan
January   Designworks Collective brand group Investment Archipelago Botanicals American mid-range fragrance Undisclosed
January   Tru Fragrance & Beauty Acquisition Lake & Skye American mid-range fragrance water Undisclosed
January International good living fund L Catterton under LVMH, etc. Investment California Naturals American mass 洗护 28.7 million USD
January   KL & Partners Investment Mentholatum Manyo South Korean mass skincare 987 million yuan
January Domestic enterprise Matrix Partners China Investment First Cover Youyi Mass efficacious makeup 100 million yuan level
January   Zhaoyue Pharmaceutical Cosmetics Investment Xingke Brand incubation skincare 37 million yuan
January   Undisclosed Investment Xingke Mass personal care 1 million yuan
January International beauty group L’Oreal Investment Jacquemus French fashion brand Undisclosed
January   L’Oreal Investment Amouage Omani luxury perfume Undisclosed
January   L’Oreal Investment Bomtostandout South Korean luxury perfume Undisclosed
January   BOLD, a fund under L’Oreal Investment Deconstruct Indian mass skincare 54 million yuan
February International good living fund Narotam Sekhsaria Family Office, etc. Investment Pilgrim Indian mass personal care 166 million yuan
February Silas Capital, etc. Investment DAMDAM Japanese mid-range skincare 21.52 million yuan
February Dodo Group, Luxury Brands LLC Investment Prai Beauty British mass skincare Undisclosed
February Sandbridge Capital Investment Fara Homidi Beauty American high-end makeup artist makeup Undisclosed
February Sandbridge Capital, etc. Investment Everist Canadian high-end hair care Undisclosed
March International others Kim Kardashian Acquisition SKKN by Kim American mid-to-high-end personal care and beauty Undisclosed
March International beauty group Unilever Investment indē wild Indian mass skincare 35.87 million yuan
March International good living fund Encore Consumer Capital Investment LYS Beauty American mass beauty Undisclosed
March Verlinvest, etc. Investment Yepoda South Korean mid-range skincare Undisclosed
March Domestic enterprise Betteni Investment Yujian High-end personal care brand Undisclosed
March International beauty group Unilever Acquisition Wild British high-end personal care 193.7 million yuan
April International good living fund Redrice Ventures, Jamjar, Saffle investments Investment Skin Rocks British mid-range skincare Undisclosed
April   Sandbridge Capital Investment Dedcool American niche fragrance Undisclosed
April Domestic enterprise Cathay Consumption Co-creation Fund Investment First Cover Youyi Mass efficacious makeup Undisclosed
April International others Oh My Cream Investment Atelier Nubio French homemade small doses Undisclosed
April International good living fund Insight Partners, etc. Investment Insight Partners American mass makeup 359 million yuan
May International good living fund True Beauty Ventures Investment Jupiter American mass hair care Undisclosed
May Domestic enterprise Shuiyang Co., Ltd., etc. Investment Zhu Bo Mass clean beauty Nearly 100 million yuan
June International beauty group L’Oreal Acquisition Medik8 British efficacious skincare 842.1 million yuan
June International beauty group Unilever Investment Dr.Squatch American natural skincare Undisclosed
June Domestic well-known enterprise Juyi Group Investment Baizhicui Mid-range efficacious skincare Undisclosed
June International others Haiziwang, Juzi Biology, etc. Investment Siyu Industrial Mass 洗护 1.65 billion yuan
July International beauty group Goodai Global Acquisition SKINFOOD South Korean mass skincare 779 million yuan
July International others Huda Kattan Acquisition Huda Beauty Middle Eastern mid-to-high-end celebrity beauty Undisclosed
July International beauty group Elf Beauty Acquisition Rhode American mid-to-high-end celebrity beauty 7.2 billion yuan
July   Givaudan Acquisition Vollmens Brazilian fragrance supplier Undisclosed
July   L’Oreal Acquisition Color Wow American high-end hair care Undisclosed
July International good living fund CLSA Capital Partners Investment Jungsaemmool Beauty South Korean high-end makeup artist makeup 26 million yuan
July   TSG Consumer Acquisition Phlur. American mid-range fragrance brand Undisclosed

 

However, behind this seemingly prosperous data, there is a significant geographical differentiation – there are only 6 investment and financing events for domestic beauty brands, specifically including:

Matrix Partners China invested in First Cover Youyi, Challenger Venture Capital invested in Fuyumanpu, Zhoufen received investment, Betteni invested in Yujian, Shuiyang Co., Ltd. invested in Zhu Zhan, and Juyi Group acquired Baizhicui.

Youyi and Zhu Zhan are both makeup brands; the former is an efficacious base makeup brand founded by Wang Yuying, the former brand manager of Love Fire under Marubi, and the latter is a clean makeup brand that has long had a certain reputation; Fuyumanpu, Zhoufen, and Yujian are all personal care brands, and they all tend to body care.

Compared with 2024, domestic beauty brand investments are increasingly inclined to play safe: no longer chasing the popular perfume and efficacious skincare tracks, but comprehensively valuing the founder’s ability and brand growth potential.

Abroad, it is a different scene.

There are 37 investment events for foreign beauty brands, among which international beauty groups such as L’Oreal Group and Unilever participated in 14 beauty brand investment and financing events; international investment banks and funds such as LVMH’s fund participated in 19.

In terms of specific trend characteristics:

The perfume category maintains capital inflow. In the first half of 2025, the investment and financing activity in the perfume track continued to increase, with 8 transactions recorded, an increase of 167% compared with the same period in 2023 (3 cases) and 33% compared with the same period in 2024 (6 cases).

Among them, L’Oreal invested in two high-end perfume brands – Amouage and Borntostandout. The former is a “old money” in perfume with annual sales exceeding 2 billion yuan; the latter is a “new noble” in perfume, famous for its bold and unconventional characteristics.

In addition to L’Oreal, large international groups also prefer perfume. American consumer goods company Designworks Collective invested in the fragrance healing brand TSG Consumer, and North American consumer goods investment giant TSG Consumer invested in the American mid-range perfume brand Phlur…

The formation of this investment preference is positively correlated with the high growth of the American perfume market.

According to data from international market research agency Circana, perfume replaced skincare to take the second place and became the second largest category in the U.S. high-end beauty market in 2024, accounting for 28% of total sales in the high-end beauty market.Us Beauty industry

Circana’s year-end data on the 2024 cosmetics market: In the United States, the high-end beauty market is still the main driver of growth, with perfume and makeup being the two fastest-growing categories.

More specifically, in the high-end market, perfume sales increased by 12%, including 43% growth in essence and 14% growth in eau de toilette, both higher than the 5% growth rate of the makeup market and 2% growth rate of the skincare market.

Under the high growth trend, capital giants and consumer markets have formed a “two-way rush”.

Mass skincare/makeup becomes a new focus of capital allocation. Different from the investment trends a few years ago, mass skincare/makeup is replacing high-end skincare/makeup to become the new favorite of capital.

Among the 43 brand investments, there are 16 mass skincare/makeup cases (12 skincare, 4 makeup), accounting for 37%.

Among them, Indian mass skincare brands account for a relatively larger proportion. For example, Unilever acquired the Indian DTC beauty brand Minimalist with annual revenue exceeding 300 million yuan for 2.4 billion yuan, and invested in the skincare brand indē wild that focuses on the popular concept – Ayurveda; L’Oreal’s venture fund invested 54 million yuan in Deconstruct, and private equity KL & Partners invested in the South Korean mass skincare Witch Factory Manyo…

This trend further confirms that “international giants regard India as the next China”: after the new CEO of Unilever took office, he set the goal of “doubling India’s business”; L’Oreal recently appointed an Indian chairman and regional manager to accelerate its localization strategy in India.

Targeting the mass market is consistent with the global beauty market trend since 2024 that “mass products surpass high-end ones, and cheap ones defeat expensive ones”. Since the beginning of last year, mass beauty has become the main growth engine of companies such as L’Oreal and Unilever. Circana also indicated in its year-end data that top mass brands have performed strongly in market distribution.

The shift in capital trends this year has outlined this trend more clearly. Mass brands with relatively low prices, focus on brands, and highlight cost performance are reconstructing the value coordinate of global beauty investment with a stable consumer base.

25 Technology Investments: From Scale Expansion to Value Digging

Shifting the focus from the brand end to the depth of the industrial chain, we will find that technological elements are also reshaping the capital allocation logic of the beauty industry.

In the first half of 2025, raw material R&D and AI technology enterprises became one of the most active tracks with 25 financing events (accounting for 31.6%), which is 4 percentage points higher than 2024 and 39% higher than the same period in 2023.

However, behind the seemingly stable growth curve, three changes are emerging:

Surge in Synthetic Biology Financing Scale, Decline of Recombinant Collagen

In 2024, synthetic biology was a golden track for beauty capital allocation. In the upstream field alone, 10 financing cases of synthetic biology enterprises emerged in the first half of that year. However, the largest amount was only nearly 100 million yuan.

Inventory of Invested Synthetic Biology Enterprises from January to July 2024
Time Invested Party Establishment Time Amount Investment Institution
January Weidakang 2021 Nearly 100 million yuan Led by Yida Capital, followed by Huachuang Yida
March Tushen Zhihe 2023 Millions of yuan Chengmei Capital
April Baikuirui 2019 Tens of millions of yuan Led by Qinzhi Capital, followed by Yueke Finance
April Xiangya Biology 2020 / Mylike Medical
April Fulaiming Biology 2017 Tens of millions of yuan Guangdong Medical Insurance Pharmaceutical, and several pharmaceutical company
May Junhemeng 2020 100 million yuan Tonghua Dongbao
May Nanjing Yiweisen 2018 Millions of yuan Invested by Huang Hao, chairman of Yuantong Fund
June Weiyuan Biology 2023 Tens of millions of yuan Undisclosed
July Nuohexin Biology 2022 Tens of millions of yuan Led by Shanghai Jiusong Shanhe, followed by Zhangjiagang Jinxin Capital and Zhangjiagang Fund Pai Venture Capital
July Meishangjie Biology 2018 / Venture Capital (Huzhou) Partnership, the main body of Huixi Industrial Investment, and Shanghai Shuiyang Management Consulting Co., Ltd.

 

This year, although there were only 4 financing events in the synthetic biology field, the scale of a single investment increased significantly – one of them reached 150 million yuan, two were close to 100 million yuan, and the lowest single investment was tens of millions of yuan. The average single financing amount in the industry increased by about 260% compared with the same period in 2024.

Inventory of Invested Synthetic Biology Enterprises from January to July 2025
Time Invested Party Establishment Time Amount Investment Institution
January Yinuojike 2021 Nearly 100 million yuan Led by Yida Capital, followed by Huachuang Yida
March Jinsan Biology 2023 Millions of yuan Chengmei Capital
May Weiming Shiguang 2021 100 million yuan Tonghua Dongbao
May Junhemeng 2020 Millions of yuan Invested by Huang Hao, chairman of Yuantong Fund

 

This investment characteristic of “reduced quantity but increased quality” reflects that capital has shifted from extensive layout to key investment in technically mature enterprises.

The sharp decrease in quantity is mainly due to the significant contraction of financing in the recombinant collagen track.

Among the 10 investment and financing events last year, 4 were directly related to recombinant collagen, but this year, no enterprise with recombinant collagen as the core technology has received a new round of financing.

This evolution essentially means that the synthetic biology track is moving from “wild growth” to “intensive cultivation”.

As leading enterprises such as L’Oreal, Shiseido, and Jinbo Biology have successively completed the capacity positioning of recombinant collagen, the track is gradually facing challenges such as declining technical dividends and serious homogenization, which will directly lead to the contraction of space for capital to provide technology replication projects.

This shows that even with the technology card, it is not easy to cheat capital’s money.

Supply Chain Enterprises Step into the Spotlight

In addition to synthetic biology, the supply chain is gradually emerging as a key variable in industrial competition.

International enterprises have taken the lead in layout: Unilever invested in Indian flexible packaging recycling enterprise Lucro Plastecycl; international funds Movendo Capital and Draycott acquired the French beauty product glass packaging factory Verescence; the domestic market is also undercurrent, such as Zhongke Chuangxing investing in Jingcui Biology, Guangzhou Xingyuan Plastic, a supplier of biosurfactants.

This series of strategic layouts reveals a new industry trend: the supply chain, a traditionally auxiliary link, has increasingly risen to become one of the core competitiveness of the beauty industry. Capital is comprehensively enhancing enterprise value by further integrating the supply chain system.

“East-West Division” between AI and Regenerative Medicine

Last year, artificial intelligence and regenerative medicine had attracted capital attention. In the first half of this year, these two sub-tracks showed obvious differentiation:

In the international market, international capital continues to increase investment in digital solutions, such as L’Oreal Group investing in AI advertising technology platforms and Evolution VC Partners injecting capital into AI makeup R&D enterprises.

In contrast, in the domestic market, capital prefers bio-material enterprises where local enterprises have more advantages. Cases such as Marubi Biology’s strategic investment in Zhisheng Runhe and Kangzhe Pharmaceutical’s stake in Baiyiyuan Biology highlight capital’s deep cultivation in regenerative medicine.

This different layout reflects the investment logic of “maximizing local advantages”. On the one hand, in terms of technical reserves, international giants have more accumulation in the AI field, while domestic enterprises have more advantages in bio-materials; on the other hand, in terms of market demands, European and American consumers are more accepting of digital solutions, while the Asia-Pacific market prefers bio-active ingredients.

This innovation competition triggered by differences in capital allocation may further widen the evolution of technical investment preferences at home and abroad.

New Hunting Rules: From Opportunity Hunting to Deterministic Cultivation

Under the resonance of multiple changes, the logic of capital allocation is undergoing a major change.

Marina Catino, a partner at global high-value management consulting firm Kearney, said that since 2024, the dynamics of the capital market have reflected a structural transformation – large capital transactions have decreased, turning to flexible and highly attractive brands; in addition, the strategic logic of capital buyers is changing – taking portfolio diversification as the strategic fulcrum and re-engineering the growth engine as the goal.

In this case, acquiring new consumers will become the main reason for strategic buyers to conduct merger and acquisition transactions in 2025: entering new markets, reaching a new generation of consumers, and opening up new channels.

The investment and financing cases in the first half of this year further confirm this. We can see:

Rise of Long-Termism, Upgrade of Capital’s Underlying Logic

Taking China as an example, there have been two investment and financing booms in China:

One was from 2014 to 2016. Against the background of the rapid growth of domestic e-commerce and mobile e-commerce, investment and financing events such as e-commerce operation and O2O e-commerce frequently occurred.

The other was from 2019 to 2021. Private equity financing and IPO listings of Chinese cosmetics enterprises jointly created a second small upsurge. During this period, Proya, Betteni, etc. were listed on the A-share market successively; Yixian E-commerce’s IPO in the US stock market created a capital myth; coupled with the rise of live streaming and the popularity of beauty collection stores, VC/PE enthusiasm was unprecedentedly high.

In these two boom periods, popularity meant valuation, and traffic was the truth.

However, since the second half of 2021, investment and financing have entered a cold winter. Until 2023, the industry lamented that “capital no longer invests in beauty”. In the past two years, capital has gradually recovered, but behind the recovery, there is a more prudent attitude:

Investors and analysts are focusing on brands that pay attention to performance and have long-term potential, no longer hurriedly calling for the next L’Oreal.

Marissa Lepor, partner and head of beauty business at investment bank The Sage Group, LLC (US), said: “These brands have performed well in market distribution and have clear core strategies and profit paths.”

Four Tracks with the Greatest Certainty

Under the guidance of this long-term values, many global beauty analysts predict that four sub-tracks, namely 1. biotechnology; 2. clinical skincare; 3. sustainable beauty; 4. regional local popular brands, will receive more capital attention.

For the first two, analysts said that on the basis of consumers’ preference for brands with scientific basis and practical solutions, they will pay more and more attention to brands dedicated to microbiome science and longevity research.

For sustainable beauty, it is believed that it is no longer just a trend, but will be an expectation. “Consumers will increasingly want products that are both environmentally friendly and do not sacrifice efficacy”. Under such demand, brands featuring green chemistry, upgraded and recycled ingredients, and refillable packaging are particularly attractive to potential buyers.

As for regional local popular brands, it is more due to beauty enterprises’ search for new regional growth points. After a long period of imitating and pursuing European and American high-end brands and lifestyles, consumers in countries such as South Korea and India will take the initiative to return to local culture, and their interest in local niche brands will increase.

In the view of Ilya Seglin, managing director of American investment bank Cascadia Capital:

“Brands with capital demand transactions in the next 12-18 months should use this time to prepare. Build differentiated capabilities and become pioneers in the track; otherwise, following will only face liquidity discounts.”

With over 20 years of expertise, Xingyuan Plastic is a trusted Chinese manufacturer specializing in cosmetic packaging materials, particularly plastic containers (PET, PP, acrylic). We deliver end-to-end solutions from custom design and R&D to production, offering diverse products like airless bottles, skincare bottles, hair care bottles, and sustainable packaging (recyclable/PCR plastics). Our ISO-certified facilities ensure strict quality control, compliance with global standards, and on-time delivery, while our free design services help brands align packaging with market trends. Catering to skincare, makeup, and haircare industries, we combine innovation, agility, and eco-conscious practices to empower startups and established brands worldwide. Partner with us for reliable, cost-effective packaging that elevates your brand’s identity.